Saturday, 5 June 2010
Eel Fishing - Learn the Facts that can Help You Catch the Trophies By Robert Benjamin Platinum Quality Author
Despite the fact that most eels are predators, many people consider them like the right choice for a home aquarium. However, eels are also a perfect catch for anglers, consisting of 4 suborders of the Anguilliformes with 19 families, 110 genres and near 400 different species.
Anguillidae is the suborder of freshwater eels, but there are also Heterenchelyidae, Chlopsidae (false morays), Myrocongridae, Moringuidae (worm eels), and Muraenidae (moray eels). Other classification based on the FishBase System, dividing eels into 15 families. In fact, there are several classification databases including the ITIS, and Systema Naturae 2000, each one giving different categories and suborders.
Juvenile American eels (Anguilla rostrata) are one of the varieties of freshwater acclimated eels in the United States. Originally found in Lesueur, Minnesota back in 1817. This snake-like fish used to appear more frequently in the state than they do today, when they are more commonly seen along the lower Mississippi River
Following the Mississippi's tributaries, including the Minnesota, Saint Lawrence Seaway, and Saint Croix rivers, anglers can find them profusely in the area, and sometimes in Lake Superior. Freshwater Females Eels swim all the way up the Mississippi River from the Gulf of Mexico to reach Minnesota for reproduction.
When eels are not migrating, it is easy to find them in medium to large size lakes and streams with quiet waters and muddy bottoms. Eels are more active at night, so they need the mud or underwater objects to be hidden during the day. Freshwater American eels live longer, and there is reference of captive eels living as long as 88 years.
Female eels of the Juvenile American specie grow larger than the males, nearly 3 feet (90 cm), although some records include eels as big as 5 feet (150 cm). Male eels do not grow longer than 1.5 feet (50 cm). In the wild, the is no evidence of how long freshwater eels live, but females spend from 10 to 20 years in the American rivers to mature and then they return to the oceans or die after breeding once.
Freshwater American eels are predators that feed at night, usually all types of meat they can find including insects, frogs, crayfish, snails, fish, and earthworms, although other predators seek eels as their meal such as cormorants, walleye, herons and mergansers, and sometimes land animals such otters and minks.
In the eastern United States, the American eels are harvested commercially, with a modest market of consumers. There is no a special concern status in Minnesota to preserve them. American eels probably have to fear to natural enemies: anglers in freshwater and sharks when they return to the ocean.
There is a website that has great information on most species of freshwater fish. It has details that pertain to each species of fish such as habitat, spawning, eating habits, the best lures and baits and more, the website is called: Fishing Stringer, and can be found at this url:
http://www.fishingstringer.com
By Robert W. Benjamin
Copyright © 2007
You may publish this article in your ezine, newsletter, or on your web site as long as it is reprinted in its entirety and without modification except for formatting needs or grammar corrections.
Robert W. Benjamin has been in the software business on the internet for over 5 years, and has been producing low-cost software for the past 25+ years. He first released products on the AMIGA and C64 computer systems in the late 1970's-80's.
Seasonal Vacation Spots
http://www.seasonalvacationspots.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Robert_Benjamin
Robert Benjamin - EzineArticles Expert Author
Anguillidae is the suborder of freshwater eels, but there are also Heterenchelyidae, Chlopsidae (false morays), Myrocongridae, Moringuidae (worm eels), and Muraenidae (moray eels). Other classification based on the FishBase System, dividing eels into 15 families. In fact, there are several classification databases including the ITIS, and Systema Naturae 2000, each one giving different categories and suborders.
Juvenile American eels (Anguilla rostrata) are one of the varieties of freshwater acclimated eels in the United States. Originally found in Lesueur, Minnesota back in 1817. This snake-like fish used to appear more frequently in the state than they do today, when they are more commonly seen along the lower Mississippi River
Following the Mississippi's tributaries, including the Minnesota, Saint Lawrence Seaway, and Saint Croix rivers, anglers can find them profusely in the area, and sometimes in Lake Superior. Freshwater Females Eels swim all the way up the Mississippi River from the Gulf of Mexico to reach Minnesota for reproduction.
When eels are not migrating, it is easy to find them in medium to large size lakes and streams with quiet waters and muddy bottoms. Eels are more active at night, so they need the mud or underwater objects to be hidden during the day. Freshwater American eels live longer, and there is reference of captive eels living as long as 88 years.
Female eels of the Juvenile American specie grow larger than the males, nearly 3 feet (90 cm), although some records include eels as big as 5 feet (150 cm). Male eels do not grow longer than 1.5 feet (50 cm). In the wild, the is no evidence of how long freshwater eels live, but females spend from 10 to 20 years in the American rivers to mature and then they return to the oceans or die after breeding once.
Freshwater American eels are predators that feed at night, usually all types of meat they can find including insects, frogs, crayfish, snails, fish, and earthworms, although other predators seek eels as their meal such as cormorants, walleye, herons and mergansers, and sometimes land animals such otters and minks.
In the eastern United States, the American eels are harvested commercially, with a modest market of consumers. There is no a special concern status in Minnesota to preserve them. American eels probably have to fear to natural enemies: anglers in freshwater and sharks when they return to the ocean.
There is a website that has great information on most species of freshwater fish. It has details that pertain to each species of fish such as habitat, spawning, eating habits, the best lures and baits and more, the website is called: Fishing Stringer, and can be found at this url:
http://www.fishingstringer.com
By Robert W. Benjamin
Copyright © 2007
You may publish this article in your ezine, newsletter, or on your web site as long as it is reprinted in its entirety and without modification except for formatting needs or grammar corrections.
Robert W. Benjamin has been in the software business on the internet for over 5 years, and has been producing low-cost software for the past 25+ years. He first released products on the AMIGA and C64 computer systems in the late 1970's-80's.
Seasonal Vacation Spots
http://www.seasonalvacationspots.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Robert_Benjamin
Robert Benjamin - EzineArticles Expert Author
Conger Eel Fishing By Frazer Mellis
Fishing for Bristol channel conger can be an enjoyable day afloat, and even save a slow days fishing. The eels aren't the giants of the south coast but with most landed weighing into double figures, fish between 10-25lb are commonly caught, 25-35lb are caught on most trips over the wrecks with fish growing up to around the 50lb mark being caught more rarely but are landed a few times a season. Although the majority are only in the 10-25lb bracket they can still put up a terrific fight on the right tackle.
The Congers ability to put up a good fight is helped by the fact that they are just as good at swimming backwards as they are forwards and have tails that are almost solid muscle and can be caught in good numbers for most of the year, although they do tend to migrate into deeper water where the conditions are more stable when the water temperature drops in the winter.
Congers live over mixed/broken ground , reefs and most structure's with the bigger specimens inhabiting the numerous second world war wrecks we have in the area. Fishing a neap tide is an advantage as you can anchor for longer over the wrecks and generally have an easier time of it in the decreased tide flow they create, but they can be targeted on the reef and broken ground marks on any tide.
Congers will both hunt and scavenge for food and eat just about anything mackerel filet, squid, crab are all good baits but the best are probably the head and guts of a fresh caught pouting or whiting or whole small cuttlefish (Just be careful of the ink from these as it doesn't come off for days and won't wash off clothes).
A 30lb class outfit is THE most you'll need in the area , with a 20lb outfit being a more suitable choice or even 6-10oz uptiders will do the job well, a 7000 or 7500 size reel loaded with 30lb braid and 12-16oz weights. A running ledger is the only rig you'll need with a 36" hook length made from 150lb mono ending in a single 6/0 or 8/0 Viking or other similarly strong hook pattern one end and a good quality swivel the other . Crimping or knotting them on is a personal choice, I find the use of a 3 turn turl knot the best method which is easy to tie even in heavy mono and has been used to land eels over 100lb in weight.
One the fish is on board you then have the challenge of holding up a wriggling slimy eel who isn't to happy for a photo, which is a challenge in itself.
Welsh Boat Record 60-14-00
British Conger Eel Record133 04 00
Can be targeted March to December with September to end of November producing the bigger eels.
For more sea fishing information and to purchase the best tackle online in the UK visit Online Sea Fishing Tackle
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Frazer_Mellis
Frazer Mellis - EzineArticles Expert Author
The Congers ability to put up a good fight is helped by the fact that they are just as good at swimming backwards as they are forwards and have tails that are almost solid muscle and can be caught in good numbers for most of the year, although they do tend to migrate into deeper water where the conditions are more stable when the water temperature drops in the winter.
Congers live over mixed/broken ground , reefs and most structure's with the bigger specimens inhabiting the numerous second world war wrecks we have in the area. Fishing a neap tide is an advantage as you can anchor for longer over the wrecks and generally have an easier time of it in the decreased tide flow they create, but they can be targeted on the reef and broken ground marks on any tide.
Congers will both hunt and scavenge for food and eat just about anything mackerel filet, squid, crab are all good baits but the best are probably the head and guts of a fresh caught pouting or whiting or whole small cuttlefish (Just be careful of the ink from these as it doesn't come off for days and won't wash off clothes).
A 30lb class outfit is THE most you'll need in the area , with a 20lb outfit being a more suitable choice or even 6-10oz uptiders will do the job well, a 7000 or 7500 size reel loaded with 30lb braid and 12-16oz weights. A running ledger is the only rig you'll need with a 36" hook length made from 150lb mono ending in a single 6/0 or 8/0 Viking or other similarly strong hook pattern one end and a good quality swivel the other . Crimping or knotting them on is a personal choice, I find the use of a 3 turn turl knot the best method which is easy to tie even in heavy mono and has been used to land eels over 100lb in weight.
One the fish is on board you then have the challenge of holding up a wriggling slimy eel who isn't to happy for a photo, which is a challenge in itself.
Welsh Boat Record 60-14-00
British Conger Eel Record133 04 00
Can be targeted March to December with September to end of November producing the bigger eels.
For more sea fishing information and to purchase the best tackle online in the UK visit Online Sea Fishing Tackle
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Frazer_Mellis
Frazer Mellis - EzineArticles Expert Author
Freshwater EELS - Eerie Or Interesting? By Alex Royal Platinum Quality Author
Freshwater Eels
Almost all freshwater eels belongs to the fish family called Anguillidae and are in the genus Anguilla. There are 15 to 20 Anguilla species including the American eel (Anguilla rostrata). Many of these ells are important sources of food and are commercially grown on farms, especially in Europe.
Few of the Anguilla species are available in the aquarium hobby, however. Probably the most common freshwater eels in the hobby are from the genus Mastacembelidae which are not true eels but classified as spiny eels.The fire and the tire track eels are well-known members of this family available to hobbyists.
The fire eel (Mastacembelus erythrotaenia) comes from South Asia (Thailand through Indochina). The fire eels dark gray to dull black and has red and yellow horizontal stripes that extend from the head to the tail and look a bit like the fire flames painted on a hot rod. This coloration is how the eel got its common name.
The fire eel can reach a length of almost 40 inches in the wild, but aquarium specimens are usually much shorter but still large. This fish needs a large tank with a 55-gallon minimum tank size. Water should be a neutral pH and around 76 degrees Fahrenheit.
As with most freshwater eels, the fire eel prefers to dig and hide in the aquarium substrate. The tank should have a soft sand bottom substrate and flat to rounded rocks without sharp edges under which the eels can hide. Lava rock is not a good choice for an aquarium containing eels.
The fire eel is nocturnal, but can be trained to come out during the day to feed. In fact, a trait common to most eels, freshwater and saltwater, is that they can be trained to eat right from the aquarist's hand. However, eels have poor eyesight and it is not unusual for them to literally bite the hand that feeds them. This is not an aggressive behavior, but the result of poor aim on the part of the eel. Good choices for feed include beef heart, worms and cut fish and shrimp.
Another common freshwater eel is the tire track eel (Mastacembelus armatus). This eel grows large and, in many cases, is mean and aggressive. The common name comes from the color pattern on the sides of the fish that resembles the track of a fire. But this fish may run over any fish that gets in its way.
Most aquarium specimens start at about 6 to 10 inches, but they quickly double or triple in size. Chances are they will start looking at tankmates as swimming morsels of food rather than neighbors. This fish will need lot of room-an aquarium at least 75 gallons-and large tankmates.
They don't seem particular about water quality other than the normal values for nitrogenous waste, neutral pH and water temperature in the mid 70s Fahrenheit. Feeding is easy as they will eat most anything such as beef heart, bloodworms, insects, frozen food and cut seafood.
We hope that this guide was of help to you and your hobby.
Also, please see information on saltwater eels.
THANK YOU...
Alex has been involved in the pet industry for over 20 years. Starting in a partnership of a full line pet store, until he opened his own store and expended it to 3 locations. His involvement and sponsorship of various pet clubs as well as donations to a variety of rescue organizations, has helped a number of pets and their owners to enjoy a long lasting relationship. As the result, his extensive experience and knowledge of animals and pet supplies is shared through these articles.
E-Pets by Royal.com
http://www.e-petsbyroyal.com/
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Alex_Royal
Almost all freshwater eels belongs to the fish family called Anguillidae and are in the genus Anguilla. There are 15 to 20 Anguilla species including the American eel (Anguilla rostrata). Many of these ells are important sources of food and are commercially grown on farms, especially in Europe.
Few of the Anguilla species are available in the aquarium hobby, however. Probably the most common freshwater eels in the hobby are from the genus Mastacembelidae which are not true eels but classified as spiny eels.The fire and the tire track eels are well-known members of this family available to hobbyists.
The fire eel (Mastacembelus erythrotaenia) comes from South Asia (Thailand through Indochina). The fire eels dark gray to dull black and has red and yellow horizontal stripes that extend from the head to the tail and look a bit like the fire flames painted on a hot rod. This coloration is how the eel got its common name.
The fire eel can reach a length of almost 40 inches in the wild, but aquarium specimens are usually much shorter but still large. This fish needs a large tank with a 55-gallon minimum tank size. Water should be a neutral pH and around 76 degrees Fahrenheit.
As with most freshwater eels, the fire eel prefers to dig and hide in the aquarium substrate. The tank should have a soft sand bottom substrate and flat to rounded rocks without sharp edges under which the eels can hide. Lava rock is not a good choice for an aquarium containing eels.
The fire eel is nocturnal, but can be trained to come out during the day to feed. In fact, a trait common to most eels, freshwater and saltwater, is that they can be trained to eat right from the aquarist's hand. However, eels have poor eyesight and it is not unusual for them to literally bite the hand that feeds them. This is not an aggressive behavior, but the result of poor aim on the part of the eel. Good choices for feed include beef heart, worms and cut fish and shrimp.
Another common freshwater eel is the tire track eel (Mastacembelus armatus). This eel grows large and, in many cases, is mean and aggressive. The common name comes from the color pattern on the sides of the fish that resembles the track of a fire. But this fish may run over any fish that gets in its way.
Most aquarium specimens start at about 6 to 10 inches, but they quickly double or triple in size. Chances are they will start looking at tankmates as swimming morsels of food rather than neighbors. This fish will need lot of room-an aquarium at least 75 gallons-and large tankmates.
They don't seem particular about water quality other than the normal values for nitrogenous waste, neutral pH and water temperature in the mid 70s Fahrenheit. Feeding is easy as they will eat most anything such as beef heart, bloodworms, insects, frozen food and cut seafood.
We hope that this guide was of help to you and your hobby.
Also, please see information on saltwater eels.
THANK YOU...
Alex has been involved in the pet industry for over 20 years. Starting in a partnership of a full line pet store, until he opened his own store and expended it to 3 locations. His involvement and sponsorship of various pet clubs as well as donations to a variety of rescue organizations, has helped a number of pets and their owners to enjoy a long lasting relationship. As the result, his extensive experience and knowledge of animals and pet supplies is shared through these articles.
E-Pets by Royal.com
http://www.e-petsbyroyal.com/
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Alex_Royal
Thursday, 3 June 2010
Fishing River - Run Salmon By Ernest Miller
One of my favorite things to do is fishing for Salmon in the rivers. Standing within 40 feet of a groups of 10 to 20 pound fish that are in one foot of water of less is a beautiful thing. For anyone who hasn't experienced it for them self, I'm always inspired by it. Many people say these fish don't bite once they get into the rivers. There is some truth to that. They aren't as aggressive as when they are suspended out in the great lakes. They don't feed as often but they do feed. They will also strike for other reasons. The will strike out of aggression, dominance, frustration and to protect their young.
There are three things to consider that will help in getting river run fish to hit. The first thing is try not to spook the fish. The second thing is how you present your bait . The third is the size of your lure or bait. Being prepared with small less conspicuous baits and larger flashy baits is always best.
Visually these fish are very sharp. If you can see them they can see you. These fish are typically spooky and for good reason . Most of these fish have seen and had to deal with people several times before they have had the opportunity to start spawning. The odds are they have tried to start their spawning process more than once and have been scared off by over eager fisherman before they ended up in front of you.
The fish quickly learn to associate people as a threat. When determining how close to get you need to keep in mind that It's import to have good control over where your casts land in the water. You don't want to be casting so hard to get your bait to the fish that you have to cast three times to get one in the zone. The odds are that if you can't control you casts a few of your casts will land on or near the fish. It doesn't take many times where your sinkers or lure lands to close to the fish and they become spooked. The end result is they move on or won't stay in one place long enough to concentrate on them.. What your wearing can make a difference on how close you can get to the fish. Try to dress in neutral or dark colors that don't completely contrast with the background of the river bank. If you can stay close to the bank or structure on the bank.
Presenting your baits is as important as anything. The main thing is what ever your fishing with, you don't want it to enter the water near the fish. There are several presentations to key in on that can help with this. One is using bobbers with spawn. This is an effective technique when fish are in holes or deeper runs. This works well for several reasons. Your hook is up off the bottom which in the rivers usually has rocks, leaves or wood tight to bottom. If your fishing on bottom all that stuff can interfere with your presentation as it drifts through the fish. Let alone it can be very frustrating if you getting snagged and losing hooks and having to tie on new hardware several times at every stop.
You don't need to be at the same depth as the fish. If anything you can be 12 inches to 24 inches above them and still be in the strike zone. With this presentation it's a good idea to use a barrel swivel below your bobber. Tie on to that using about a two foot leader. If your main line is 10 pound test use a leader of 8 pound. If your Main line is 8 pound use a 6 pound leader. If you do get caught on structure you can usually limit your loss to a hook and some leader line. Keep in mind you want to cast above the whole keeping the entry of your bait well away from the fish. Now set the length between your hook and your bobber about 2 feet longer than the hole is deep. Start off by using less weight than what you think you need. You don't want your bait to sink straight down. Ideally what you want is by the time your bait has drifter down to the hole where the fish are your bait has worked it's way down toward the bottom. Because your bait is sinking as it's drifting with the current your line will be at an angle. Furthest down stream is your bait.
This will be what the fish will see first which is exactly what you want. If your not quite sure if your down to where the fish are and decide to add weight let your bobber tell you when you have added enough. If you bobber begins to hesitate as it's drifting you catching bottom and that's not what you want. This presentation usually works best with a 2 inch ball of Skein Spawn. The large ball of skein well above the fish is a large target the fish will key on. The easiest way I've found to keep the skein on is to use a snelled hook. Slip the knot down the hook about ¼ inch and pinch the knot to the hook to keep it from moving. With your other hand push your leader line from in front of the eye of the hook back through the eye. This will make a loop behind the eye of the hook. Push it until you have a large loop. Slip the skein inside the loop so it's centered and pull until the skein is attached. To finish it off I usually make sure the point of my hook is turned into the skein so it's not showing.
While fishing for fish on beds I usually use a 7or 8 weight fly rod with a sinking tip or a spinning rod with split shot and a small wet fly. I find the sink tip with a small minnow imitator 18 inches behind a #12 single egg pattern is very effective. I usually try to target the fish that are hanging near the back of the bed first. What your trying to do is get your sinking line to pull the fly through the fish in a down stream direction. This represents a minnow chasing a single egg as it drifts down stream. This triggers the fish to feed for two reasons. The first reason is they don't like fish feeding on the eggs. The second reason is male dominance. There is a natural pecking order established in every group of fish especially when they are on beds. The smaller fish always get picked on and pushed around by a bigger fish in the area.
Sometimes it takes fishing flies up to six inches long to trigger this response. When the fly lands you want it upstream and on the opposite side of the as you are. The sinking tip should land down stream from the fish. You want the current to pull your sinking tip which will drag your fly though the fish. You want this to happen without the sinking tip going through the fish if at all possible. It takes some practice. By the time you get the placement of your cast correct you may have spooked some fish. This is another reason I target the fish toward the back first. If some of the fish do get spooked with little adjustment you can cast a little further upstream and fish the front of the beds. Your now targeting fish that haven't been startled by your previous casts.
When fishing with a spinning rod and flies it's a bit easier. I tie a barrel swivel on with a 5 to 6 foot leader to a fly or a spawn sack. When I tie on the barrel swivel I leave a tag end of about 4 inches. I use the tag end for split shot. If your split shot gets hung up in the rocks you can do a quick snap and the split shot will slide off. For someone who is buying their flies this can save them allot of money. Another advantage is It's easier to put on a split shot than a whole new leader, especially when it's cold outside. When deciding where you need to be when casting you should stand up stream from the fish. Cast well past the fish and up stream. This keeps the noise from the bait entering the water away from the fish.
As soon as it hits the water start reeling your line in. As your reeling in, your line will fade back toward the fish because of the current .You want to reel it in so your sinker ends up about 10 feet upstream from the fish. By this time your bait is down stream form your sinkers. This is where the long leader comes in. At this point allow your bait to drift down and through the fish. The fish see your bait well before they see your sinkers. I try to use either small eggs of neutral colored flies when trying to get the fish to feed out of hunger. I will spend a good amount of time on a group of fish before giving up. I believe by drifting baits that aren't bold or flashy a person is less likely to spook the fish. If you can keep the fish together in one location some of the fish will bite.
http://www.michiganfishguide.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ernest_Miller
There are three things to consider that will help in getting river run fish to hit. The first thing is try not to spook the fish. The second thing is how you present your bait . The third is the size of your lure or bait. Being prepared with small less conspicuous baits and larger flashy baits is always best.
Visually these fish are very sharp. If you can see them they can see you. These fish are typically spooky and for good reason . Most of these fish have seen and had to deal with people several times before they have had the opportunity to start spawning. The odds are they have tried to start their spawning process more than once and have been scared off by over eager fisherman before they ended up in front of you.
The fish quickly learn to associate people as a threat. When determining how close to get you need to keep in mind that It's import to have good control over where your casts land in the water. You don't want to be casting so hard to get your bait to the fish that you have to cast three times to get one in the zone. The odds are that if you can't control you casts a few of your casts will land on or near the fish. It doesn't take many times where your sinkers or lure lands to close to the fish and they become spooked. The end result is they move on or won't stay in one place long enough to concentrate on them.. What your wearing can make a difference on how close you can get to the fish. Try to dress in neutral or dark colors that don't completely contrast with the background of the river bank. If you can stay close to the bank or structure on the bank.
Presenting your baits is as important as anything. The main thing is what ever your fishing with, you don't want it to enter the water near the fish. There are several presentations to key in on that can help with this. One is using bobbers with spawn. This is an effective technique when fish are in holes or deeper runs. This works well for several reasons. Your hook is up off the bottom which in the rivers usually has rocks, leaves or wood tight to bottom. If your fishing on bottom all that stuff can interfere with your presentation as it drifts through the fish. Let alone it can be very frustrating if you getting snagged and losing hooks and having to tie on new hardware several times at every stop.
You don't need to be at the same depth as the fish. If anything you can be 12 inches to 24 inches above them and still be in the strike zone. With this presentation it's a good idea to use a barrel swivel below your bobber. Tie on to that using about a two foot leader. If your main line is 10 pound test use a leader of 8 pound. If your Main line is 8 pound use a 6 pound leader. If you do get caught on structure you can usually limit your loss to a hook and some leader line. Keep in mind you want to cast above the whole keeping the entry of your bait well away from the fish. Now set the length between your hook and your bobber about 2 feet longer than the hole is deep. Start off by using less weight than what you think you need. You don't want your bait to sink straight down. Ideally what you want is by the time your bait has drifter down to the hole where the fish are your bait has worked it's way down toward the bottom. Because your bait is sinking as it's drifting with the current your line will be at an angle. Furthest down stream is your bait.
This will be what the fish will see first which is exactly what you want. If your not quite sure if your down to where the fish are and decide to add weight let your bobber tell you when you have added enough. If you bobber begins to hesitate as it's drifting you catching bottom and that's not what you want. This presentation usually works best with a 2 inch ball of Skein Spawn. The large ball of skein well above the fish is a large target the fish will key on. The easiest way I've found to keep the skein on is to use a snelled hook. Slip the knot down the hook about ¼ inch and pinch the knot to the hook to keep it from moving. With your other hand push your leader line from in front of the eye of the hook back through the eye. This will make a loop behind the eye of the hook. Push it until you have a large loop. Slip the skein inside the loop so it's centered and pull until the skein is attached. To finish it off I usually make sure the point of my hook is turned into the skein so it's not showing.
While fishing for fish on beds I usually use a 7or 8 weight fly rod with a sinking tip or a spinning rod with split shot and a small wet fly. I find the sink tip with a small minnow imitator 18 inches behind a #12 single egg pattern is very effective. I usually try to target the fish that are hanging near the back of the bed first. What your trying to do is get your sinking line to pull the fly through the fish in a down stream direction. This represents a minnow chasing a single egg as it drifts down stream. This triggers the fish to feed for two reasons. The first reason is they don't like fish feeding on the eggs. The second reason is male dominance. There is a natural pecking order established in every group of fish especially when they are on beds. The smaller fish always get picked on and pushed around by a bigger fish in the area.
Sometimes it takes fishing flies up to six inches long to trigger this response. When the fly lands you want it upstream and on the opposite side of the as you are. The sinking tip should land down stream from the fish. You want the current to pull your sinking tip which will drag your fly though the fish. You want this to happen without the sinking tip going through the fish if at all possible. It takes some practice. By the time you get the placement of your cast correct you may have spooked some fish. This is another reason I target the fish toward the back first. If some of the fish do get spooked with little adjustment you can cast a little further upstream and fish the front of the beds. Your now targeting fish that haven't been startled by your previous casts.
When fishing with a spinning rod and flies it's a bit easier. I tie a barrel swivel on with a 5 to 6 foot leader to a fly or a spawn sack. When I tie on the barrel swivel I leave a tag end of about 4 inches. I use the tag end for split shot. If your split shot gets hung up in the rocks you can do a quick snap and the split shot will slide off. For someone who is buying their flies this can save them allot of money. Another advantage is It's easier to put on a split shot than a whole new leader, especially when it's cold outside. When deciding where you need to be when casting you should stand up stream from the fish. Cast well past the fish and up stream. This keeps the noise from the bait entering the water away from the fish.
As soon as it hits the water start reeling your line in. As your reeling in, your line will fade back toward the fish because of the current .You want to reel it in so your sinker ends up about 10 feet upstream from the fish. By this time your bait is down stream form your sinkers. This is where the long leader comes in. At this point allow your bait to drift down and through the fish. The fish see your bait well before they see your sinkers. I try to use either small eggs of neutral colored flies when trying to get the fish to feed out of hunger. I will spend a good amount of time on a group of fish before giving up. I believe by drifting baits that aren't bold or flashy a person is less likely to spook the fish. If you can keep the fish together in one location some of the fish will bite.
http://www.michiganfishguide.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ernest_Miller
Easy Steps to Taking Up Angling By Bill Bailey
If you have ever thought about taking up Angling but don't know where to start, then you are not alone.
There are many 'would be' Anglers out there who never had the benefit or the opportunity to learn how to fish.
Most Anglers began to learn their craft as children - as is the more 'traditional' route into the sport - the knowledge having been passed from a senior family member, or gained by trial and error as a child with school-friends.
For those of you unfortunate enough not to have been inducted into angling as a youngster, finding out where to begin in later life can seem like a daunting prospect.
If you are thinking about taking up the sport just for yourself, or maybe you are looking for a leisure activity that you and your children can participate together, there are a number of ways to gain access into the world of angling.
Firstly, you will need to decide what branch of angling you want to take up. This will more than likely depend on local opportunities. For example, if you live close to the sea, you may want to take up fishing from the beach. If you have a river, canal or lake near to your home then chances are that you may decide to learn to fish at those locations. Of course there are variations on any theme, which may mean you opt for fly-fishing on the local reservoir or lake.
Whatever 'discipline' you choose then you should try to gain some experience of fishing first-hand, before you invest in relatively expensive fishing tackle and equipment.
There are many Angling Clubs and Associations that offer 'taster sessions' for beginners. Finding your local club and contact will be straight-forward, by searching the internet. If you have no luck on the net, phone your local tackle dealer for advice.
Generally 'taster sessions' put on by local Angling Clubs are staffed by very keen and enthusiastic members, blessed with infinite patience - something you will need to be an Angler - and very likely go out of their way to provide you with useful advice and assistance.
If you feel that you want to progress from the 'taster session', the easiest way to gain knowledge and experience is to invest in a starter session or two with local Angling coach. You can use the same process to locate a professional coach as you used to find your local Angling Club. If you choose to use a professional coach, they will also advise you on the tackle and equipment you need to get you going.
If you prefer to learn under your 'own steam' rather than invest in lessons, then the next step is to gain 'local' information on suitable venue to learn to fish. You can obtain this vital piece of information from your local tackle dealer.
Walking into a tackle shop and plucking up the courage to ask for help and advice is not an easy step to make, particularly if the store is busy with anglers browsing the shelves and racks, and with other anglers standing at the counter in conversation with the staff about their recent fishing exploits. Try and choose a day and a time during the week when the shop is not too busy. This will allow the staff to spend more time assisting you, rather than trying to have a conversation between serving customers.
When you have identified your local tackle dealer, give them a call and find out when is their least busy time. Once you have found out the best time to visit, ask for the name of the person you should speak to about getting advice on taking up angling. In effect you are making an appointment, which will not be of 'one-way' benefit as the tackle dealer will be investing their time, hoping to retain you as a customer for the future.
If you have used a professional coach to gain some knowledge, you should go to the local tackle dealer equipped with a list of things you need for your first venture into the world of angling. If you used the 'taster session' with your local club, and decide not to use coach, make sure you write down a list of what you need to get you started before you leave.
Remember that the vast array of rods, reels, line, floats, weights, hooks, bait, nets etc on display in the store are there to catch Anglers, rather than fish!
Most Anglers like to 'collect', without even realising it. They are like kids in a sweetshop really. Any spare cash will likely be spent on the myriad of fishing tackle on display, and the chances are most of it will never get used 'in anger'!
When you venture into the tackle store, be sure to stick to the list you have carefully prepared. Don't invest in the most expensive option available, or the cheapest. Don't fall into the trap of buying 'on-line' at auction either, as there is an awful lot of poor quality fishing tackle sold to the unwary over the internet.
Ask your dealer for advice on good quality, reliable tackle, suitable for beginner. If you look after it, you can always pass it on to someone else when you graduate to more sophisticated, higher quality tackle in the future.
Now you are fully equipped and ready to go. By now you should have received a little experience and knowledge before venturing out to your chosen fishing location. So what next?
Remember to check with your local tackle dealer if you require license to fish. This will depend on the country you live in, or the type of fishing you intend to start off with.
Make sure you think about safety. If you are going fishing alone, ensure someone knows where you are fishing and when you are due back.
You are now ready to go fishing. As Anglers say, "tight lines"!
Bill Bailey is a freelance writer and contributor to the Anglers Social Network site [http://www.anglingbook.com] and [http://www.schnafflehound.com] Bill is a keen all round leisure angler.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Bill_Bailey
There are many 'would be' Anglers out there who never had the benefit or the opportunity to learn how to fish.
Most Anglers began to learn their craft as children - as is the more 'traditional' route into the sport - the knowledge having been passed from a senior family member, or gained by trial and error as a child with school-friends.
For those of you unfortunate enough not to have been inducted into angling as a youngster, finding out where to begin in later life can seem like a daunting prospect.
If you are thinking about taking up the sport just for yourself, or maybe you are looking for a leisure activity that you and your children can participate together, there are a number of ways to gain access into the world of angling.
Firstly, you will need to decide what branch of angling you want to take up. This will more than likely depend on local opportunities. For example, if you live close to the sea, you may want to take up fishing from the beach. If you have a river, canal or lake near to your home then chances are that you may decide to learn to fish at those locations. Of course there are variations on any theme, which may mean you opt for fly-fishing on the local reservoir or lake.
Whatever 'discipline' you choose then you should try to gain some experience of fishing first-hand, before you invest in relatively expensive fishing tackle and equipment.
There are many Angling Clubs and Associations that offer 'taster sessions' for beginners. Finding your local club and contact will be straight-forward, by searching the internet. If you have no luck on the net, phone your local tackle dealer for advice.
Generally 'taster sessions' put on by local Angling Clubs are staffed by very keen and enthusiastic members, blessed with infinite patience - something you will need to be an Angler - and very likely go out of their way to provide you with useful advice and assistance.
If you feel that you want to progress from the 'taster session', the easiest way to gain knowledge and experience is to invest in a starter session or two with local Angling coach. You can use the same process to locate a professional coach as you used to find your local Angling Club. If you choose to use a professional coach, they will also advise you on the tackle and equipment you need to get you going.
If you prefer to learn under your 'own steam' rather than invest in lessons, then the next step is to gain 'local' information on suitable venue to learn to fish. You can obtain this vital piece of information from your local tackle dealer.
Walking into a tackle shop and plucking up the courage to ask for help and advice is not an easy step to make, particularly if the store is busy with anglers browsing the shelves and racks, and with other anglers standing at the counter in conversation with the staff about their recent fishing exploits. Try and choose a day and a time during the week when the shop is not too busy. This will allow the staff to spend more time assisting you, rather than trying to have a conversation between serving customers.
When you have identified your local tackle dealer, give them a call and find out when is their least busy time. Once you have found out the best time to visit, ask for the name of the person you should speak to about getting advice on taking up angling. In effect you are making an appointment, which will not be of 'one-way' benefit as the tackle dealer will be investing their time, hoping to retain you as a customer for the future.
If you have used a professional coach to gain some knowledge, you should go to the local tackle dealer equipped with a list of things you need for your first venture into the world of angling. If you used the 'taster session' with your local club, and decide not to use coach, make sure you write down a list of what you need to get you started before you leave.
Remember that the vast array of rods, reels, line, floats, weights, hooks, bait, nets etc on display in the store are there to catch Anglers, rather than fish!
Most Anglers like to 'collect', without even realising it. They are like kids in a sweetshop really. Any spare cash will likely be spent on the myriad of fishing tackle on display, and the chances are most of it will never get used 'in anger'!
When you venture into the tackle store, be sure to stick to the list you have carefully prepared. Don't invest in the most expensive option available, or the cheapest. Don't fall into the trap of buying 'on-line' at auction either, as there is an awful lot of poor quality fishing tackle sold to the unwary over the internet.
Ask your dealer for advice on good quality, reliable tackle, suitable for beginner. If you look after it, you can always pass it on to someone else when you graduate to more sophisticated, higher quality tackle in the future.
Now you are fully equipped and ready to go. By now you should have received a little experience and knowledge before venturing out to your chosen fishing location. So what next?
Remember to check with your local tackle dealer if you require license to fish. This will depend on the country you live in, or the type of fishing you intend to start off with.
Make sure you think about safety. If you are going fishing alone, ensure someone knows where you are fishing and when you are due back.
You are now ready to go fishing. As Anglers say, "tight lines"!
Bill Bailey is a freelance writer and contributor to the Anglers Social Network site [http://www.anglingbook.com] and [http://www.schnafflehound.com] Bill is a keen all round leisure angler.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Bill_Bailey
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
